CASABINDO
The first impression the traveller gets when he arrives to the small town of Casabindo is the sight of a shining white immense church against the reddish brown backdrop of the rocky mountains cliffs.
Casabindo is a long-established landmark in the highlands of Jujuy, surrounded by mountains and, which as early as in 1590 had a permanent fulltime parish priest. In pre-Hispanic times, a branch of the Inca road passed through on its way to Chile, and during colonial times it was the capital of the local Encomienda or Spanish land grant.
It is an old indigenous settlement, and close by you will find the archaeological sites of Sorcuyo, on the northernmost shore of the Laguna de Guayatayoc Lake, positioned 23 km from Casabindo.
During the XVIII century, the towns of Casabindo became very important due to the construction of its church, which is considered the Cathedral of the Puna, "la Catedral de la Puna".
The Ascension Church or "La Iglesia de la Asunción" (A National Historic Monument) is totally walled in by a masonry wall, and its only access is through a rustic arch. It was built in 1772, and its interior was decorated with paintings and ornaments brought from Cuzco (Peru)l; of particular interest are the four votive altars, set into the outside masonry wall at equidistant places.
On August 15th of every year, the Patron Saint's Day of Our Lady of the Ascension, the town streets are filled with people dancing the traditional dances of the festival, like the Danza de los Samilantes. At the same time, a fair opens offering local sweets and other Regional produce while a singular bloodless bullfight called the Bullfight of the Ribbon - Toreo de la Vincha takes place: In it the participants try to take a ribbon with silver coins from the horns of the bull, a ribbon which the winner later offers up to the Virgin.
Its buildings are made out of adobe clay and stonewall, with roofs of clay and straw. The houses climb up the steep cliff sides where they blend in with the big ochre coloured cliff sides, in the midst of the hilly terrain.
It is located 55 km southwest of Abra Pampa, at an altitude of 3377 m.a.s.l. down Provincial Route Nº 1. Its few inhabitants live from the land, dedicating themselves to the breeding of sheep and the manufacturing of regional handmade rugs and ponchos out of sheep and llama wool.
One day round trips from Casabindo include the small town of Abra Pampa, with a small museum, car services and a restaurant. On the way you can stop over at the "National Institute of Agriculture and Animal Husbandry" an experimental farm where they breed vicunas in captivity. A hostelry is alsoavailable.
THE BULLFIGHT OF THE RIBBON
It is a bullfight, a singular spectacle in all of Argentina, which takes place on the Patron Saint's Day of Our Lady of the Ascension. The young spectators will make improvised jumps into the plaza trying to snatch a silver coin studded ribbon from the horns of the animal.
The bullfight takes place in the square in front of the church on every August 15th. It is a tradition brought to Argentina by the Spaniards 500 years ago, and it has been embellished with the proper characteristics of the northern Argentina. Its main difference is that the animal is not wounded or killed as it is in a regular bullfight.
As a sample of two cultures living together in harmony is the fact that while some watch the preparations for the bullfight in the plaza, not far off, others get ready for a ceremony called Calpachada, consisting of the burial of coca leaves and alcoholic beverages as a payment to the Mother Earth - Pachamama takes place since the month of August is also the month of sacrifice to this deity.
WHEN TO VISIT
Any time of the year is a good time for a visit to Casabindo. The road police or Gendarmería will inform you on the state of the road.