MOLINOS
Founded in the midst of the 17th century, in a privileged sector of the Calchaquí Valley, Molinos (Mills) is a sierra town originated by the commission granted to Don Diego Diez Gómez in those days. It stands at 2020 m.a.s.l.
Years later, one of his descendants got married to General Domingo de Isasmendi, who faught against the Calchaquí natives. The Molinos estate comprised the land of the current Molinos department and part of the territory of the San Carlos Department.
In those years Molinos had already become the only town of importance at the west side of the Calchaquí Valley, and until the first years of the 20th century it was the most important trading route between Salta and Chile.
In 1775, Nicolás Severo, son of Domingo de Isasmendi, inherits the property and achieves the maximum affluence for the hacienda. Six years later he fought the insurgent forces led by Tupac Amaru. He was also the last royalist governor of Salta, and ended surrendered the place to Feliciano Chiclana, who was sent by the Buenos Aires Junta.
When died in 1837 prosperity declined.
The chapel and the hacienda house still are standing nowadays.
The big old house is like the others built in the town, with adobe walls and rounded river stone foundations. Huge buttresses were built in several places to shore up the walls and the roofs are built with locust tree beams, joists, reeds and a superficial mud layer, though originally it was originally covered with handmade Spanish type tiles moulded over the thighs.
The cut corners and the sober colonial window bars made first of wood and then of ironwork, are very characteristic of this town as well.
The Molinos Church stands before the current Hostal de Molinos' big old house, and keeps the remains of don Nicolás Severo de Isasmendi, who ordered its building at the end of the 18th century.
The church was the property of the commission until 1760, when it was transferred to the Catholic Church. It has only one nave with two lateral altarpices forming the crossing and the choir. It shows old and rich images.
It is a National Historical Monument since 1942. It has been restored, though but seems to be again in danger of disappearing due to its closeness of the river and the great quantity of saltpetre showing on its walls.
Only one day excursions to Molinos are possible because there are no lodging facilities. The returning point is Cachi.
WEATHER
Dry and arid. During the southern hemisphere winter it has sunny days and getting cold.
FESTIVITIES
The Patron Fiesta is held the 2nd of February and is aimed to honour the Virgen de la Candelaria. As is traditional in the valley, the altar boys together with the gauchos accompany their patron during the procession. A distinctiveness of this fiesta is the salutation of the patron with flags, which, according to Fany Osán de Pérez Sáenz, is common in some parts of Spain and could be seen as a patron tradition implanted by the Spaniards. The serenade to the Virgin is celebrated the day before. When she comes out to the balcony the people sing for her.
HOW TO GET THERE
It is located 210 kms away from Salta and 116 from Cafayate, going through the Nº 40 National Route.
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
- Visit the vicuña's reserve and the San Pedro Nolasco de los Molinos' Artisan's Association.
- Hikes and horseback rides around the peaceful town.
- The church is worth a especial attention.
- Visits to the Colomé and Amaicha ranches, famous for their red wines.
- Visit to the Laguna de Brealitos Lagoon, to walk around it or sport fish atherines. A 40 kms trip going through Seclantás.
- Visit to the Churcal ruins, 20 minutes away, and to the remnants of the Fuerte de Tacuil Fort, a formidable defence site of the natives against the conquistadors.