PUNTA TOMBO PENGUIN ROOKERY

Puerto Piramides | Caleta Valdes | Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery | Punta Norte

One hundred and eighty one km from Puerto Madryn and 110 from Trelew, the Punta Tombo Penguin Wildlife Reserve gives travellers the unique possibility of becoming part of a penguin community, by walking among them, observing their activity, watching their pompous stride, learning how they build their nests and raise their young among the bushes, and from a slightly greater distance, admire their swimming proficiency.

Punta Tombo is a narrow and stony strip of land penetrating some 3 ½ km into the ocean; its ample beaches offer a gentle slope where penguins can build their nests without difficulty. In 1979, Chubut province declared it a Fauna Reserve to protect the colony of Magellan penguins and other species that share the habitat with them.

Punta Tombo is the world's biggest colony of Magellan penguins. Furthermore, no other penguin colony of this magnitude is so easily reachable. For this state of affairs to continue, it is only necessary to follow the precept: "Se mira y no se toca" ("you may look at the merchandise but do not touch it").

The Magellan penguins arrive each year at Punta Tombo to couple and bear their young (at the high point of the season there are far more than one million individuals).

Then they start their return voyage to the northeast coast of South America as part of their annual migration cycle. Visitors are delighted to see them moving busily around, looking for their nests or running after their chicks.

Penguins are sea birds. They have wings, but these are adapted to swimming, not flying. In fact, these birds spend most of their lives in the water, they even sleep in it. When they swim, they are capable of a speed of 8 km per hour.

An adult penguin measures some 50 cm. in height and weighs around 5 kilos. Their plumage is white in front and dark at the back with a double collar. The strange cries of adult penguins are similar to a horse's whinny, They usually ward off intruders and attract their mates.

The chicks, on their part, ask for their food with a steady, whistling chirp.

You must not miss taking a picture of the chicks learning to swim by their mothers' side in the tide pools at low tide (during February).

HOW DOES ONE GET THERE?
You go south from Puerto Madryn following Provincial Route Nº 3 (paved), heading towards Rawson. After 70 km, and having gone through the town of Trelew, you get to the crossing with Provincial Route Nº 1 (gravel track), from there southward, you have another 107 km travelling to do.

The road is consolidated, but somewhat winding. This makes it essential to drive carefully and slowly. Although the landscape is wild, it hides many surprises, because local wildlife can often appear suddenly at the roadside to make your trip more entertaining.

As this is a protected area, it has all the necessary facilities for its proper functioning (restrooms, "quick shop", ticket office, and a local Flora and Fauna Information Center that is being set up).

You return along the same gravel track to Route Nº 25, where you can decide to visit Chubut's capital city on the coast, Rawson, with its Playa Unión beachfront, or else start a tour of the lower valley of the Chubut River, crossing the city of Trelew.

Along the same road that leads to Esquel (Nº 25) you will get to Gaiman, an old Welsh colony that keeps its ethnic traditions alive. A word of advice: do not forget to try a sample of "Welsh tea".

WHAT CAN BE SEEN ACCORDING TO THE TIME OF YEAR
January: the penguin chicks leave their nests, grow swimming feathers and start learning to swim in the sea.

February: the young molt, take the beaches in swarms and make it very difficult for visitors to walk to the shoreline.

March-April: the molting season ends for the young and starts for adults; birds start their northward migration.

May, June, July and August: during these months no Magellan penguins are visible, because they are always feeding out at sea.

August-September: this is the time that adult males and females arrive, mark their territories and build their nests.

October: brooding and hatching season lasts between 30 and 45 days.

November: more chicks are born and parents start to take care of them.

December: chicks grow and there is an intensive activity on the beach, while seagulls and skuas wait their chance to pillage their nests.